Author Topic: Edgwick Lathe  (Read 26471 times)

Offline mat9900

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Edgwick Lathe
« on: February 16, 2017, 03:31:03 PM »
Hi all, just joined the forum here as iv bought myself a new toy in the shape of an Edgwick mk1 from Ebay:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Edgwick-Manual-Lathe-/162373099422?hash=item25ce30df9e%3Ag%3ApJ8AAOSwjDZYiv0f&autorefresh=true&nma=true&si=5tpfgJCqG94ZA%252BygLgpEG7p3Rbc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

As you can see I didnt give a lot for it, have fetched it and ran it up and all seems to work ok other than the clamp on the tailstock, so so far so good!
I am intending to do a restoration on her, so will surely be on here asking for help/guidance! Matt

Offline tom osselton

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2017, 03:47:55 PM »
Nice find! You should be happy with it.

Offline awemawson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2017, 04:00:43 PM »
Matt, welcome to the forum. A few here have Edgwick lathes so you should fit in just nicely  :clap:

Why don't you pop over to the introductions sub forum and tell us a bit about yourself and why you want a lathe (Well really WHO wouldn't want a lathe  :lol: )
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2017, 06:08:06 PM »
Hi all, just joined the forum here as iv bought myself a new toy in the shape of an Edgwick mk1 from Ebay:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Edgwick-Manual-Lathe-/162373099422?hash=item25ce30df9e%3Ag%3ApJ8AAOSwjDZYiv0f&autorefresh=true&nma=true&si=5tpfgJCqG94ZA%252BygLgpEG7p3Rbc%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I'm one of the other Edgwick owners. I tried to see the advertisment on eBay for your lathe, but nothing is available as the sale is closed.So, how about some photos? I think you are the fifth Edgewick owner on here!

Looking forward to hearing more about your lathe, maybe some photos?

All the best, Matthew.

Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2017, 07:29:20 PM »
I thought the link worked but you have to scroll down a bit-apologies if I'm wrong. I will try and get some pics up tomorrow, but great to hear there are other edgwick owners on here! Thanks, Matt

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2017, 07:36:18 PM »
I thought the link worked but you have to scroll down a bit-apologies if I'm wrong. I will try and get some pics up tomorrow, but great to hear there are other edgwick owners on here! Thanks, Matt
I went back and scrolled dow, sure enough, there it was! Photo copied!

Regards, Matthew

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2017, 08:22:49 PM »
Used to have one 2 or 3 lathes ago but it was very badly worn and probably gone for scrap now. Adv had a few of the bits off it, chucks, steadies etc.

Made a couple of cross slide nuts for an Edgwick ? a while ago ?


Pressed an insert into the original nut [ too idle to make a new one ] and supplied a spare insert as well.
John Stevenson

Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2017, 03:40:06 AM »
At this rate, we'll have to set up an Edgwick Owner's club!  :)

I bought mine a few years back (paid a bit more than you did too, but still cheap for such a large and capable lathe). I like the fact it'll do a wide range of both metric and imperial threads from the gearbox, no change gears to mess around with, and it's got a decent spindle bore. You eventually get used to the fact it'll only do 670rpm flat out...

I made a QCTP for mine fairly early into my ownership, I couldn't get on with the oem 4-way tool post.

I might be able to sort you out a replacement tailstock clamp, if yours is missing bits... I have a whole spare tailstock. Check for wear in the tailstock nut - I have about a full turn of backlash in mine, and it's only a matter of time before it tears the threads out.... they've worn very thin. Still.... it hasn't let me down yet!

Looking forward to the restoration thread :D I'd particularly like to see pictures if you have a go at the brake/clutch.... my brake doesn't work, which makes threading to shoulders an "interesting" challenge...
Cheers!
Ade.
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Occasionally: Zhengzhou, China. An even longer way from anywhere...

Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2017, 04:40:40 AM »
Hi AdeV, great to hear from another owner. When I get to that tailstock il give you a shout! Yes it does look a capable lathe- I have a Portass dreadnought which has taught me lots, but is too small for a lot of the work I wish to do, hence iv gone for the Edgwick.
Having threaded numerous times with the Portass changewheels I am definitely keen on the Edgwick screwcutting gearbox!
You say your top spindle speed is 670? Im pretty sure mine is 1000rpm but will have a better look when im next with it, although some of the numbers on the speed selectors are worn and hard to read. It definitely has a 5hp 1440rpm motor on it if that makes any difference.

Also thanks to John Stevenson for that info regarding cross slide nuts- again whn I get that far I will probably give you a shout- I can see joining this forum was one of my better ideas!

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2017, 06:18:43 AM »
Your a lucky Guy! You have the 1440rpm 5 horse motor which is why you have 1000RPM, that sounds like a great lathe. I've had my Edgwick about a year now, but I haven't got much done on it! I need to get back to getting it running properly, putting a reversing switch on it and a quick change tool post that I've found for it!

All the best, Matthew

Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2017, 06:37:09 AM »
Hi AdeV, great to hear from another owner. When I get to that tailstock il give you a shout! Yes it does look a capable lathe- I have a Portass dreadnought which has taught me lots, but is too small for a lot of the work I wish to do, hence iv gone for the Edgwick.
Having threaded numerous times with the Portass changewheels I am definitely keen on the Edgwick screwcutting gearbox!
You say your top spindle speed is 670? Im pretty sure mine is 1000rpm but will have a better look when im next with it, although some of the numbers on the speed selectors are worn and hard to read. It definitely has a 5hp 1440rpm motor on it if that makes any difference.

Also thanks to John Stevenson for that info regarding cross slide nuts- again whn I get that far I will probably give you a shout- I can see joining this forum was one of my better ideas!

They're certainly good heavy capable lathes. Using insert tooling, I've taken 60 thou cuts (120thou off the diameter) in steel, and it's not batted an eyelid. Of course, you have to stop and let the metal cool down for a while after such abuse... I exclusively use insert tooling in mine, because I'm hopeless at grinding HSS... and Chronos do reasonably priced inserts/holders these days.

Yes, you've got the better motor there, mine's only the 3hp, not sure of it's top speed, but that does work out as 670 on the spindle in top gear. The slowest mine will go is 17rpm - great for threading, your slowest speed will be a bit faster than that. You may find the selector suggests 670 is your top speed, ignore it as you have the faster motor.

The only "gotcha" I'd say you really need to watch out for - when you go from powered drive to neutral (the big lever on the apron), watch you don't pull it past neutral as you'll end up engaging the screwcutting drive - which moves the carriage even faster! Don't ask me how I know this!! The resulting tool-crash bent a 1.5" steel bar, destroyed an insert holder, and put a decent dent in my QCTP. Fortunately, it didn't do any other damage...
Cheers!
Ade.
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Location: Wallasey, Merseyside. A long way from anywhere.
Occasionally: Zhengzhou, China. An even longer way from anywhere...

Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2017, 06:20:49 PM »
Hi again, I have some pics of the lathe but when I try and upload I get the following message:- The madmodder.net page isn’t working.    madmodder.net is currently unable to handle this request.   HTTP ERROR 500
Any ideas what im doing wrong?
Anyway the writing on my speed selector is very worn and hard to read, but think it says 19 rpm as the slowest, 1000 as the fastest- if anyone knows better im all ears!
Also I found the serial number :- DL 2556 if that means anything to anyone?
Thanks for that "gotcha" info- now iv looked at the lever I see how easy that would be to do-i will try to be careful!

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2017, 07:31:23 PM »
Speeds when fitted with 1450rpm motor.

Regards, Matthew


Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #13 on: February 18, 2017, 07:40:45 AM »
I just noticed in the eBay picture that yours came with a 3-jaw chuck held in the 4-jaw.... exactly the same as mine! I've been lucky and since managed to acquire a 3-jaw with an Edgwick fitting (I think it came from John, or it might have come with the spare parts I bought from someone who scrapped one), the chucks are a bit of a pain to change - no handy camlock fitting! Seems strange really, the tailstock has one of the  best clamping systems out there (captive lever, no spanner to mislay), one of the most versatile gearboxes of any similar-age lathe, yet the chuck is a complete batstard to change... hey ho. I ran mine as I found it for a while, but I did have a small accident one time with the double-chuck arrangement, so I've never done it since.
Cheers!
Ade.
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Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2017, 03:37:55 PM »
Hi again, thanks for that speed info Matthew- that makes sense, due to the wear on the numbers what I thought was 19 is 39 on the next set of 3- my mistake.
And AdeV, yes I thought the chuck mounting arrangement was strange, but thought perhaps I would make a backplate for that 3 jaw (or another 3 jaw I have in my collection if its better) at some point.

Offline Biggles

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2017, 03:31:13 PM »
Welcome Matt.  :ddb:

Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #16 on: February 23, 2017, 08:43:41 AM »
Thanks for that Biggles.
I have finally managed to get a photo of it uploaded- still on the trailer having fetched it though!

Offline awemawson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #17 on: February 23, 2017, 09:06:55 AM »
Now there's a meaty bit of iron.

Should be ideal for making those tiny watch staffs   :clap:
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #18 on: February 23, 2017, 11:15:55 AM »
Think I still have a fixed steady for one of these lathes. I can just see the top of a steady under a bench but it's going to be a two day job with a rope round my waist and a trail of breadcrumbs before I can liberate it.
John Stevenson

Offline awemawson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #19 on: February 23, 2017, 11:18:10 AM »
Still clearing out John? Did those rollers get anywhere near a pallet yet ?
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2017, 02:13:27 PM »
Back again!  Iv got around to looking at the non-working tailstock clamp- but being thick I cant see how it is supposed to work! Iv uploaded a pic of the underside of it- do any of the other Edgwick owners on here know whats missing/wrong that makes it "pull up" when rotated?

Offline awemawson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2017, 02:25:46 PM »
Is that an eccentric cam on the end of the locking shaft? If so presumably it forces the 'shoe' in which it rides against whatever is next to it  :thumbup:
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2017, 07:16:49 PM »
If I'm out of bed early enough tomorrow, I'll nip down the unit and have a look at mine - which, as it works properly, should give us an answer  :thumbup:
Cheers!
Ade.
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Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #23 on: March 01, 2017, 02:47:26 PM »
Thanks Ade. I don't think its a cam on the end- the unit need to pull vertically upwards to clamp against the underside of the bed- not sideways.  So being as thick as I am I can't see how it is supposed to do that. Hopefully Ade can shed some light on the matter..............

Offline philf

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #24 on: March 01, 2017, 04:47:17 PM »
I don't think its a cam on the end- the unit need to pull vertically upwards to clamp against the underside of the bed- not sideways. 

Matt,

This is a typical tailstock clamp. As you can see the clamp plate is pulled up by an eccentric when the locking handle is turned.



I guess your Edgwick will use a similar system. Often there's a nylock nut under the plate to adjust the clamping point.

[Edit: I see from Ade's photos it's nothing like the one above.

A bit of a mystery as to why the screw doesn't turn when you operate the handle.

Or perhaps it does and that may be the problem.]

Phil.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2017, 12:56:46 PM by philf »
Phil Fern
Location: Marple, Cheshire

Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #25 on: March 01, 2017, 07:40:04 PM »
Turns out it's a pretty simple mechanism actually... there's a base plate (the "shoe"), and a clamping "thing". The bar that goes up from the "shoe" to the lever is threaded, as you turn the lever it tightens, raising the base plate which squishes the clamping "thing" against the underside of the ways.

See photos (click to embiggen as usual):



Lever in unlocked position:


Lever in locked position (note: more thread sticking out of the top):



Looking at your photo Matt, I think all you need to do is to tighten that threaded bar up so it's just touching the bottom of the shoe when the lever is at the back of the tailstock. I'm going to take a wild guess that it'll be quite stiff, I'm assuming the lump on the bottom is designed to bind slightly in the "shoe" so the lever tends to tighten on the thread, rather than just rotating the whole piece. If not, then I'd tighten it anyway, then wedge a shim in there so that it binds up.
Cheers!
Ade.
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Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #26 on: March 02, 2017, 08:12:37 AM »
To adjust the tail-stock lever, remove tail-stock, rotate the  clamping bolt to screw into the handle. it is probable that the clamping mechanism has turned a full turn when it was removed at some stage. I would start by removing the tail-stock and turning the whole locking shoe a full turn so that the that the acme screw screws into the handle, thus shortening it. I don't understand why the image won't open on it's own, it's a .pdf!

Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #27 on: March 02, 2017, 09:10:39 AM »
Thanks very much guys- I was missing the fact that the handle is threaded onto the vertical bolt- I thought perhaps there was something missing off the bottom that raised the shoe.  The round piece turns inside the show so will need shimming out somehow as Ade suggested- anyway now i know what the issue is I will see what I can sort.  Thanks again, Matt

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #28 on: March 02, 2017, 10:32:42 AM »
You  shouldn't need shims, take of the head stock, rotate the locking shoe so that the locking bolt screws into the handle a turn and try it again. As I said before, it is probable tha the locking mechanism was turned a full turn when somebody removed it. It won't have worn enough to no longer lock in it's life time!

Regards, Matthew

Offline seadog

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #29 on: March 02, 2017, 10:43:32 AM »
If the bolt rotates, then there is a problem with the shoe. The slot should be straight cut and a close fit to the head. The design is not unlike the Boxford, and I dare say, a lot of other lathes, in that you can adjust the length of the screw by 1/6th of a turn by pushing the shoe up so that the head of the bolt disengages with the slot, then rotating it.

Offline awemawson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #30 on: March 02, 2017, 10:51:39 AM »
From the picture in post #20 it does rather look as though someone in the past has replaced the hex headed bolt with one that had a larger head that has been turned down to fit the slot, but doesn't grip - unless as I said in an earlier reply the circular head is actually eccentric and locks against the shoe.  :scratch:
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline philf

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #31 on: March 02, 2017, 11:02:40 AM »
Has the previous owner turned the hex (or square) head off the bolt?
Phil Fern
Location: Marple, Cheshire

Offline awemawson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #32 on: March 02, 2017, 11:22:01 AM »
Could easily be cured by drilling the bolt head radially and pressing a roll pin in
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #33 on: March 02, 2017, 12:37:00 PM »
I just went back to the original pick, I had missed that it had been turned round. Andrew's solution is probably the easiest if you haven't got a welder to put a ridge on the head of the bolt. Normally the hex head is held in place in the groove.
Although Andrew's solution is viable, it will leave slack in the movement. Four welds to transform the head into a squar would eliminat play!

Regards, Matthew

Offline philf

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #34 on: March 02, 2017, 03:08:49 PM »
How about making a simple clamp to stop the head turning:



A grub screw (or 2) from the side could lock the round head. The width of the block could be a snug fit in the slot in the shoe.

Phil.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2017, 12:56:05 PM by philf »
Phil Fern
Location: Marple, Cheshire

Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #35 on: March 03, 2017, 09:36:05 AM »
I realised I hadn't looked under the shoe to see what was there... and sure enough, it's a ruddy great bolt head:



So I'd be tempted to go with Matt's solution: Adjust so it works, then weld to the bolt head so it jams in the shoe.
Cheers!
Ade.
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Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #36 on: March 03, 2017, 11:56:16 AM »
I have found a nut the correct size- so I am going to turn the "lump" on the end of the bolt down to the size of the hole in the nut, then weld it on. Then it will be as it was originally. I will post some pics when i've done it, but thanks for all the info guys.

Offline mat9900

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #37 on: March 07, 2017, 09:22:51 AM »
Hi again, I have fixed the clamp by turning the old bolt head down and welding a nut on the end as I had planned. Have attached a pic, not the smartest job I'v ever done but it seems to do the job! Thanks again for all the info.

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #38 on: March 07, 2017, 12:09:39 PM »
 :thumbup:

Regards, Matthew

Offline HalifaxHerbert

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #39 on: January 15, 2018, 02:54:02 PM »
Hey Guys,

I am another EDGWICK 6.5-inch Lathe Mk. 1 owner .

Mine is fitted with a Pratt Burnerd 1210-02505 Precision 250mm chuck with 0.015" run out.

Any ideas ?

Offline hermetic

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #40 on: January 16, 2018, 12:56:40 PM »
Hi HH, There is a limited amount you can do with a three jaw when it gets worn, but you can usually improve the situation somewhat. first, take the chuck off the lathe, strip it down, looking for any damage or looseness in the jaws and the scroll, clean it, oil it, and rebuild it. Check the lathe nose threads, and the register to for any damage or dings and if you find any, stone them off so you know the chuck is properly seated on the lathe, oil the thread and put the chuck back on the lathe. Get a known good piece of , say 1" plus dia bar, put it in the chuck, with the end right at the back of the jaws, tighten it firmly,and watch the jaws carefully as you do it to see if you can see the jaws rising in their slots and use a DTI to check the runout. Any better? If the chuck has adjusting screws adjacent to the backplate bolts, you need to slacken the backplate bolts very slightly, and adjust them to dial the chuck in on the DTI. If there is play between the register on the backplate and the chuck, you can slacken the bolts holding the chuck to the backplate, and bump the chuck with a hide mallet and see if you can improve it that way, or make a mark on the backplate and the chuck, then remove the chuck from the backplate and see if you get better concentricity by turning it one set of fixing holes, and refitting it. At the end of the day, you can put each job in the chuck, then bump it with a mallet and check with a dti, till you get it "near enough". remember a 3 jaw chuck will have 3 to 4 thou run out when new! Mine, on a Colchester Student mk1 ran out about 17thou, but with care, this could be reduce to about 6 thou which was adequate (barely) but I used it until I was able to get a new (to me) chuck! Don't sweat it, make what you want to make on it, and if the parts aren't accurate enough, look for another chuck. Can you post up some pics, of the lathe and the chuck, especially the side faces of the chuck so we can see if it has adjustment screws or not.
Good Luck,
Phil
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Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #41 on: January 16, 2018, 08:53:45 PM »
Hey Guys,

I am another EDGWICK 6.5-inch Lathe Mk. 1 owner .

Mine is fitted with a Pratt Burnerd 1210-02505 Precision 250mm chuck with 0.015" run out.

Any ideas ?

Welcome!  :wave: The old Edgwick is a fine lathe, the only thing that's a bit awkward (or, shall we say, less user friendly) compared to some other lathes is the chuck changing procedure....

So, 15 thou of runout, that's pretty serious...

Some questions:

Have you measured the runout on the chuck body? If yes, what do you get?

Presumably the 3 nuts which hold the chuck in place are all tight enough? They don't need to be murder tight, but they do need to be preventing any movement... If they're good, read on...

Put the lathe in it's slowest gear (17rpm), now grab hold of the chuck and try to wobble it up/down and/or back/forth. Any discernable movement (have a dial indicator set up on the chuck body if you can't feel anything). If it's definitely moving about, it may well be wear in the spindle bearings.

If there's no major movement in the spindle bearings, the next step is to remove the chuck. Undo the 3 bolts that hold it to the spindle nose, and withdraw carefully. If it's anything like mine, you have to back them off until they're virtually touching the headstock, then wobble the chuck off, then finish undoing/removing them. Set aside.  Now carefully examine the register in the chuck - any crushed swarf in there? It wouldn't take much of a chip to throw the alignment off.  Check the spindle nose for similar.

If there's no swarf in there, put your dial indicator up against the spindle nose & check for runout again. If you've got runout at the spindle, the bearings need replacing. if it runs true, your chuck is bad. Try wobbling the spindle again; you should see nearly no movement in the DI.

If you can't find any wobble anywhere, put the chuck back on (but not the nuts at this point). Push the chuck all the way home & try to wobble it on the register. If it moves about, then the chuck backplate is either badly worn, or is not the correct backplate for the machine, or has been over-cut when originally machined. This isn't the end of the road for the chuck, if you don't mind messing about re-fitting it: Basically, re-install and tighten somewhat. Run the lathe slowly under power, note the high spot, tap with a rubber mallet/plastic or wooden hammer. Chase the high spots around until you've got it as true as you can, then carefully nip the bolts up, bit by bit, frequently re-checking runout. With care, you should be able to get it pretty damn close; certainly close enough to work with until you can replace the chuck and/or backplate.

Post some pictures!

Good luck!

Cheers,
Ade.
Another Edgwick owner :)
Cheers!
Ade.
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Location: Wallasey, Merseyside. A long way from anywhere.
Occasionally: Zhengzhou, China. An even longer way from anywhere...

Offline hermetic

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #42 on: January 17, 2018, 01:17:58 PM »
AAAH! they bolt on! never had an Edgewick lathe, but time yet, although I have two lathes already, but I am not trying to give them up! I have an eye on a Harrison locally............................................
Man who says it cannot be done should not disturb man doing it! https://www.youtube.com/user/philhermetic/videos?

Offline HalifaxHerbert

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #43 on: January 19, 2018, 02:49:16 PM »
Hi ADEV and Hermetic,

Thank you for your comments , much appreciated.
I have measured the run out on the chuck back plate ( Max 0.001" ).
Next, I  measured the run out on the chuck body ( max 0.001")
Both measurements were taken with my trusted Mercer DTI.

I have rotated the jaws , cant get better than 0.015" run out.

All the jaws are a good fit into the chuck, no slop and what I can see of the scroll, it looks in reasonable condition but I have not taken the chuck off and stripped it down because it is freezing in the garage/workshop.

Please correct me if I am wrong, do the jaws need re grinding ?
All the mounting nuts back plate to headstock and cap head bolts back plate to chuck are tight.
Pratt Burnerd in the USA inform me that this is a precision chuck, spare parts no longer available.

Is it worth pursuing a second hand chuck ( which might be crap) but I do not fancy paying big £ for a Pratt Burnerd.
Any help and advice would be much appreciated.
This machine is in my opinion a classic icon. I have the "massive face plate " which an owner of and engineering company gave me. He stated his business on one of these and used it for many years. Now retired in the Bahamas. Great!!!!!!



Offline vintageandclassicrepairs

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #44 on: January 19, 2018, 05:46:51 PM »
Hi,
Before considering regrinding the jaws I would clamp a range of different size round parts in the chuck See if the run out is the same at the different diameters and at the same high / low point on the chuck
If the run out is concentrated at or near one end of the range of sizes the chuck will hold then the wear is mostly in the scroll
If the jaws are reground and the scroll is worn it will only hold "true" at one diameter
If the run out is constant at all sizes then it would be worth regrinding the jaws

I almost always use a four jaw independent chuck, with a bit of practice you will never bother with a self "centering" three jaw

John

Offline timby

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #45 on: January 20, 2018, 04:01:03 AM »

There are some  Pratt Burnerd Jaws listed in  Thame Engineering's catalogue.

https://www.thame-eng.com/products/tec-chuck-jaws/

Regrinding will of course be cheaper and new Jaws won't cure a worn scroll.


Some people salvage old Chucks by  machining the Chuck register bigger then truing the Chuck up to  suit each workpeice.

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #46 on: January 20, 2018, 08:16:01 AM »
Hey Guys,

I am another EDGWICK 6.5-inch Lathe Mk. 1 owner .

Mine is fitted with a Pratt Burnerd 1210-02505 Precision 250mm chuck with 0.015" run out.

Any ideas ?

Halifax Herbert,

I've just posted a video on regrinding the jaws on my three jaw chuck, it happens to be an Edgewick mk1! I hope it's of some use to you!

Cheers, Matthew

Offline HalifaxHerbert

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #47 on: January 20, 2018, 10:04:33 AM »
Many thanks to VINTAGEANDCLASSICREPAIRS, TIMBY, MATTINKER and all contributors for their valuable input which is much appreciated.

I will investigate the chuck more precisely and try to determine if it is the scroll or the jaws or both which are worn.

If the chuck is beyond repair, has anybody  got some experience with Chinese made chucks or an alternative chuck when compared to the super expensive Pratt Burnerd brand ?
I do not want to go down the second hand route for obvious reasons.

Thank you again for your input.


Offline HalifaxHerbert

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #48 on: January 25, 2018, 10:19:21 AM »
Hi everybody,

I have re measured the run out on my Edgwick Mk1 again.

10mm ground bar : 10mm run out.
25mm ground bar : +/- 2.5mm run out.
Some sideways slop in jaws which was not evident before.

It looks like the chuck scroll is badly worn and the jaw slop may be a problem but I have not stripped it down yet.
Just wondering if it would be better to replace the chuck.

I do not want to go to the expense of a Pratt Burnerd.
Has anybody used and got any feedback on HBM  and TOS chucks ?


Any comments would be much appreciated.

Offline awemawson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #49 on: January 25, 2018, 10:51:24 AM »
10 mm run out  :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:

You've got the jaws in the wrong slots I reckon  :scratch:
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #50 on: January 25, 2018, 11:43:33 AM »
10mm That's enormous, I had 0.6mm at worst!

are the test bars being held by the full length of the Jaw?

It sounds like your a couple of decimal points out!

Cheers, Matthew

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #51 on: January 25, 2018, 01:07:31 PM »
Reminds me of my "Clumsy bastard" error: I was schoked to find that my finishing touch of balancing fixture shaft increased the excentricity 5 fold, then I noticed that I used 0,002 mm/div indicator insted of the 0,01 mm/div indicator that I had used originally. Phew!

Pekka

Offline HalifaxHerbert

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #52 on: January 26, 2018, 04:42:52 AM »
hi AWEMAWSON

The jaws are in their correct positions and have also been rotated .

Offline HalifaxHerbert

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #53 on: January 26, 2018, 04:50:27 AM »
Gentlemen,

Please accept my sincere apologies.

0.010" run out and +/- 0.0025 run out.

Typographical error. :doh:

Offline awemawson

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #54 on: January 26, 2018, 06:07:44 AM »
... that's better  :clap: :clap: :clap:
Andrew Mawson
East Sussex

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #55 on: January 26, 2018, 07:55:05 AM »
Gentlemen,

Please accept my sincere apologies.

0.010" run out and +/- 0.0025 run out.

Typographical error. :doh:

I thought that you were palying us. 0.25 mm TIR is on the large side, but it's still usable and if the headstock bearings are fine you can produce good work, just takes a little forethough.

Pekka

Offline mattinker

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #56 on: January 27, 2018, 01:41:34 AM »
Gentlemen,

Please accept my sincere apologies.

0.010" run out and +/- 0.0025 run out.

Typographical error. :doh:

Sound to me like it would be worth trying grinding the jaws. If you go gently, it's hard to make them any worse!

Regards, Matthew

Offline atlas1302d

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #57 on: February 05, 2023, 09:52:52 AM »
Hello Gues,
I’ve recently bought a MK1 as well. I live in the Netherlands near Zwolle. I’ve just got it and made my first object yesterday, it was a success. Unfortunately the lathe is leaking oil at several places. Maybe I’ll do a complete restoration in the future. For now I would just like to use it for some projects. Can somebody help me with some documentation of the lathe, so I see how it’s build and I can fix the problems.

Kind regards Dennis

Offline hermetic

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #58 on: February 06, 2023, 11:41:07 AM »
They are available from Lathes.co.uk,  but £45.00! look around before you buy!
Phil
Man who says it cannot be done should not disturb man doing it! https://www.youtube.com/user/philhermetic/videos?

Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #59 on: February 06, 2023, 12:46:44 PM »
There's a PDF of the manual available here: https://www.listerengine.com/books/Edgwick-Lathe_Manual.pdf

FWIW, the complete list of Things I Have Done To Mine is now:
 - Made a QCTP (there's a build thread somewhere in this forum)
 - Fitted a Chinesium 6-jaw chuck - made my own backplate from a sliver of steel... nearly got it bob on but ended up overcutting the register by about 1/2 thou (a metric gnat's-todger)
 - Fitted 3 axes of a 4-axis DRO. Just need to add the tailstock reader. Having a DRO is REALLY NICE!

Mine leaks oil into the swarf tray all the time. Like any British Classic Car, all that means is you never need to actually change the oil... just keep topping it up!
Cheers!
Ade.
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Location: Wallasey, Merseyside. A long way from anywhere.
Occasionally: Zhengzhou, China. An even longer way from anywhere...

Offline atlas1302d

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #60 on: February 08, 2023, 02:07:13 PM »
Thanks Ade!

This helps me a lot! Topping it up seems a great idear to me  :clap:
What kind of DRO are you installing, there are o lot of them out there to buy.

Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #61 on: February 09, 2023, 04:46:25 AM »
Thanks Ade!

This helps me a lot! Topping it up seems a great idear to me  :clap:
What kind of DRO are you installing, there are o lot of them out there to buy.

Hi Dennis,

I bought this Ditron one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32951659566.html (with the RPM option which, strangely, is far more expensive than the without.... that wasn't an option when I bought it)

I went with 1uM scales (all optical), which works great - although the 3rd decimal digit tends to flicker when the lathe is running... too much vibration. I wanted 4 axes so as well as the carriage and the cross-slide, I have one on the top slide, and I would like to fit one to the tailstock but haven't got a Round Tuit yet.

To say it's transformed the machine is an understatement! It's absolutely brilliant... and also showed up where I have a fair bit of wear in the cross-slide leadscrew... which would explain why I always had to work so hard to hit a dimension before I got it.

Mounting was "challenging".... particularly on the topslide where there's not a lot of headroom. I ended up milling my own brackets from lumps of aluminium and/or steel I had lying around; and even so I still need to fettle the cross slide end cap, as I can't rotate the top slide because it fouls the bottom of the readout. 30 seconds with an angle grinder will solve that... but it's cooold out there...

I also put the main readout on the front (it would be better on the back) - mainly because access to the back of the machine is highly restricted, and I'm buggered if I'm moving it on my own again.

The Ditron package comes with covers, various brackets, the slides cut to the correct lengths (I just worked mine out based on how far I could move stuff - if I can find the original order, I'd be happy to send those lengths to you). I'll grab some pictures too... because I realise I haven't done that (and I really ought to).
Cheers!
Ade.
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Location: Wallasey, Merseyside. A long way from anywhere.
Occasionally: Zhengzhou, China. An even longer way from anywhere...

Offline philf

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #62 on: February 09, 2023, 07:28:16 AM »
I bought this Ditron one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32951659566.html (with the RPM option which, strangely, is far more expensive than the without.... that wasn't an option when I bought it)

Ade,

Were you clobbered for import duty and VAT buying from AliExpress? I have bought from them in the past butnot since leaving the EU when things changed. (& not for the better!)

I'm very wary of buying from outside the UK now.

Phil.
Phil Fern
Location: Marple, Cheshire

Offline AdeV

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Re: Edgwick Lathe
« Reply #63 on: February 09, 2023, 05:59:25 PM »
I bought this Ditron one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32951659566.html (with the RPM option which, strangely, is far more expensive than the without.... that wasn't an option when I bought it)

Ade,

Were you clobbered for import duty and VAT buying from AliExpress? I have bought from them in the past butnot since leaving the EU when things changed. (& not for the better!)

I'm very wary of buying from outside the UK now.

Phil.

Hi Phil,

IIRC, I had to pay VAT & the GPO's £12 surcharge for doing absolutely nothing.... don't recall having to pay any import duty, although it was 3 years ago, so my memory is hazy.

I've bought some small stuff from Ali since then, nothing major. I think they now include VAT & duty in the price you pay, something to do with some new rules (can't recall if that was an EU directive or a UK post-Brexit change).
Cheers!
Ade.
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Location: Wallasey, Merseyside. A long way from anywhere.
Occasionally: Zhengzhou, China. An even longer way from anywhere...